Comprehensive Nylon (Nylon / Polyamide) Fabric Classification System
Nylon, chemically known as polyamide (PA), is an extremely versatile man-made polymer fiber. The performance of its final product is determined by a variety of factors. Below, we will provide an in-depth analysis based on five core dimensions: material, thickness, waterproofness, dimensions, and application.
1. Classification by Material & Construction
This is the most basic and core classification, determining the fundamental physical and chemical properties of nylon.
1.1. By Polymer Type
Nylon 6 (Nylon 6 / PA6):
Features: Excellent elasticity, easy dyeing, high gloss, and excellent fatigue resistance. Relatively low cost.
Applications: Civilian clothing (stockings, underwear), carpets (excellent resilience), industrial yarn, and fishing nets. Nylon 6,6 (PA66):
Features: Higher strength and stiffness, with superior abrasion resistance, heat resistance, and UV resistance compared to nylon 6. It also has a stiffer feel.
Applications: High-performance outdoor equipment (backpacks, tents), industrial applications (automotive airbags, tire cord), and military-grade equipment.
Specialty Nylons:
Nylon 4,6 (PA46): Offers higher heat resistance and is used in automotive engine peripheral components.
Nylon 11, 12 (PA11, PA12): Offers lower moisture absorption, improved dimensional stability, and increased chemical resistance. Used in precision industrial components and fuel lines.
Aramid: Examples include Kevlar® and Nomex®. Although chemically classified as an aromatic polyamide, it is often discussed in conjunction with nylon in a broader sense. It exhibits ultra-high strength, ballistic resistance, and fire resistance. 1.2. Weave Structure
Plain Weave:
Features: The simplest and most common weave, with warp and weft yarns interlaced in an over-and-under pattern. Stable structure, smooth surface, and abrasion resistance.
Example: Taffeta. Lightweight, dense, and commonly used for clothing linings, umbrellas, and down jackets.
Twill Weave:
Features: A surface with distinct diagonal lines. Softer than plain weave, with good drape and wrinkle resistance.
Applications: Pants, jackets, and some softer bags.
Ripstop:
Features: A checkered pattern is created by weaving thicker reinforcing yarns at regular intervals into a plain or twill weave. This greatly enhances tear resistance, preventing damage from spreading.
Applications: Parachutes, tents, high-end backpacks, and lightweight outdoor jackets. This is the signature weave for outdoor gear. Oxford:
Features: Typically woven using a basket weave technique, with multiple yarns woven together. The fabric is thick, abrasion-resistant, and water-resistant.
Applications: Backpacks (especially 210D and 420D Oxford), luggage, and tent bases.
Ballistic Nylon:
Features: Originally developed for lining body armor during World War II, it utilizes extremely coarse yarns (typically 840D or 1050D) and a high-density basket weave. It offers exceptional abrasion and tear resistance.
Applications: High-end luggage, computer bags, military equipment, and motorcyclist clothing.
Satin Weave:
Features: Smooth, high-gloss surface. Silky feel, but relatively poor abrasion resistance.
Applications: Linings for high-end women's clothing, pajamas, dresses, and jackets. 1.3. Yarn Form and Blends
Filament: Smooth surface and high strength. Used in most technical fabrics.
Staple: Cut into fibers of varying lengths and then spun into yarn. It has a cotton-like appearance and feel, with a plush feel and excellent comfort.
Air Textured Yarn (ATY): Compressed air is used to create loops in the filaments, mimicking the bulk of staple fibers while retaining their strength.
Nylon/Spandex (or Elastane) blends:
Features: Provides excellent four-way or two-way stretch.
Applications: Activewear, yoga pants, swimwear, and tights.
Nylon/Cotton (NYCO) blends:
Features: Combines the durability of nylon with the comfort and breathability of cotton. Applications: Military combat uniforms (e.g., 50/50 NYCO Ripstop), overalls.
Nylon/Polyester blends: Combining the properties of both fibers or creating a special look (due to varying dyeability).
Nylon/Wool blends: Wool is blended with nylon to increase strength and durability, often found in high-performance socks and outdoor apparel.
1.4. By Brand/Technology
CORDURA®: A renowned nylon brand from INVISTA, renowned for its exceptional durability and abrasion resistance, it is virtually synonymous with high-quality, wear-resistant nylon. Available in a variety of thicknesses and types (e.g., Classic, HP, Ballistic).
Supplex®: Also an INVISTA brand, this nylon fabric offers a cotton-soft feel, breathability, and quick-drying properties.
Tactel®: Also from INVISTA, this fabric is exceptionally soft and lightweight, often used in underwear and sportswear. Econyl®: A nylon regenerated from nylon waste, such as discarded fishing nets, found in the ocean. It represents an environmentally friendly and sustainable approach.
2. Classification by Thickness/Weight
Thickness is typically measured in denier (D) and/or grammes per square meter (GSM or g/m²).
Denier (D): A unit of measurement for fiber thickness. It is defined as the number of grams per 9,000 meters of yarn. Lower D numbers indicate finer yarns and lighter, thinner fabrics; higher D numbers indicate thicker yarns and more durable fabrics.
GSM: The weight of fabric per square meter. This directly reflects the thickness of the fabric.
Classification: Denier, GSM, Characteristics and Main Applications
Ultralight: 7D - 20D < 40 GSM. Extremely light and thin, with a transparent feel. Used in ultralight tents, sleeping bag shells, high-end down jackets, and parachutes.
Lightweight: 30D - 70D, 40 - 100 GSM. A perfect balance of lightness and durability. Used in most hiking tents, windbreakers, backpack rain covers, and lightweight backpacks.
Midweight: 100D - 420D, 100 - 250 GSM. Good durability and weight. Used in mainstream hiking backpacks, daypacks, tent bases, and hardwearing jackets.
Heavyweight: 500D - 1000D+, 250 - 400+ GSM. Extremely durable and abrasion-resistant. Used in heavy-duty backpacks, travel luggage, military equipment, and motorcycle gear.
Super Heavyweight/Ballistic: 840D - 1680D > 400 GSM. Extremely abrasion-resistant and tear-resistant. Specifically refers to ballistic nylon. Used in high-end luggage, military vests, and tool bags.
3. Classification by Waterproof Performance
Nylon inherently has some hydrophobicity, but it is not waterproof. Waterproofing is achieved through post-treatment.
Uncoated:
Performance: Has only limited inherent hydrophobicity, wets easily with water. However, it offers optimal breathability.
Applications: Linings of clothing and interlayers in some bags where waterproofing is not required.
DWR (Durable Water Repellent):
Performance: A chemical coating applied to the surface of the fabric that causes water to condense and spherically roll off (a lotus effect). This does not clog the fabric's pores, maintaining breathability. It is not waterproof and can only withstand light rain or brief splashes. It loses its effectiveness with washing and wear.
Applications: The outer layers of nearly all outdoor clothing (softshells and hardshells), tent flysheets, and backpacks.
Waterproof Coating:
Performance: One or more layers of waterproof material are applied to the inside of the fabric. Completely waterproof, but typically sacrifices breathability.
PU (Polyurethane) coating: The most common and cost-effective. Coating thickness affects waterproofness and durability.
PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) coating: Excellent waterproofness and low cost, but heavier, stiffer, prone to cracking at low temperatures, and environmentally unfriendly.
Silicone coating (Silnylon): Silicone is applied to both sides of nylon. Very lightweight, highly waterproof, and has high tear strength. However, the coating is slippery and difficult to sew or repair. Commonly used in ultralight tents.
Waterproofness rating: Measured in hydrostatic head (HH), measured in mm.
1,500mm - 5,000mm: Waterproof for everyday use, suitable for light to moderate rain.
5,000mm - 10,000mm: Waterproof for moderate to heavy rain, suitable for most outdoor activities. 10,000mm - 20,000mm+: For heavy rain, high-pressure water jets, professional mountaineering, and harsh environments.
Waterproof/Breathable Membrane:
Performance: A microporous membrane (such as ePTFE) is laminated to a nylon fabric. The pores in the membrane are smaller than a water droplet but larger than a water vapor molecule, achieving both waterproofness and breathability.
Construction:
2-Layer (2L): Fabric + membrane. The inner layer requires a separate mesh or lining protective membrane.
2.5-Layer (2.5L): Fabric + membrane + protective print/coating. Lighter, but less durable.
3-Layer (3L): Fabric + membrane + inner knit fabric. These three layers are laminated together for maximum durability and performance. Representative technologies: Gore-Tex®, eVent®, NeoShell®, Pertex Shield®.
Breathability: Measured by MVTR (Moisture Vapor Transmission Rate), expressed in g/m²/24h. The higher the value, the more breathable.
4. Classification by Application
This classification is based on the end product, combining all of the above considerations.
Apparel:
Hardshell: Lightweight (40D-70D) Ripstop nylon with a 3L waterproof and breathable membrane (such as Gore-Tex Pro).
Insulated Jackets: Ultra-lightweight (10D-20D) plain weave nylon with a DWR treatment.
Activewear: Lightweight nylon/spandex blend with high stretch and moisture-wicking properties. Hosiery/Lingerie: Ultra-fine denier (5D-15D) nylon 6 filament.
Military/Workwear: Midweight (500D) or NYCO blended Ripstop or Twill fabric.
Gear & Equipment:
High-end Backpacks: 210D-420D Ripstop CORDURA® body, 500D-1000D CORDURA® or Ballistic Nylon bottom with PU coating and DWR treatment.
Ultralight Tents: 15-20D Ripstop Silnylon flysheet, 30-40D nylon with PU coating (HH 5000mm+) bottom sheet. Luggage: 840D-1680D Ballistic Nylon, for ultimate durability.
Parachutes: 30D Ripstop nylon with a low-porosity treatment.
Industrial & Home:
Automotive: Airbags (uncoated high-strength nylon 6,6), tire cord, carpet, and interior trim.
Home Furnishing: Carpet (nylon 6, for excellent resilience), curtains, and durable sofa covers.
Medical: Surgical sutures and vascular grafts.
Integrated Application Example
A high-end jacket